Day 1 turned out to be relatively easy for me, consisting of a 3-hour, 8 km walk with an altitude gain of 2800m. It served as a gentle introduction to acclimate ourselves to the lower oxygen levels. The terrain was manageable, featuring gradual uphill sections surrounded by lively flora such as mosses, ferns, and orchids. The weather was pleasant, with tropical rainforest conditions marked by warm temperatures and humidity.
Despite the weight they carried, the porters consistently outpaced us, setting up tents and preparing dinner at the camp before our arrival. The first night in the tent brought a childlike excitement, as we learned how to sleep in a sleeping bag.
Dinner was a delight – a warming soup, fruits, and chicken cream sauce with rice. The following morning, we experienced the unique Kilimanjaro ritual known as "wash wash" –using hot water to clean ourselves as best as possible with towels. A hearty breakfast awaited us, featuring the surprising addition of Nutella, pancakes, and omelets.
Then came the preparation for the day's trek, ensuring we were ready to reach the next camp on time.
The Perils of Altitude: "Water for Life"
The most persistent challenge throughout the adventure, starting from the first day, was the frequent need to pee. Our guide emphasized the importance of "water for life," urging us to drink a minimum of 2.5 liters per day. Additionally, we took altitude pills (Diamox) as recommended, which not only helped with altitude sickness but also led to increased frequency in urination – day and night. Diamox facilitated deeper and faster breathing, allowing more oxygen into our bloodstream. While beneficial for altitude acclimatization, it meant multiple trips to the portable toilet during the night. Some in our group resorted to peeing in a plastic bag to avoid braving the cold, but I found that too unsettling and faced the weather each night, just to answer nature's call.
Day 2 : INTO THE HEIGHTS
Day2 unfolded in two parts. The first leg involved reaching Shira Camp 1, situated at an altitude of 3,500m and covering a distance of 12km. The ascent took five hours, with the landscape gradually shifting from greenery to rocky terrain.
The terrain becomes steeper, and as you ascend, you'll be rewarded with sweeping vistas of the Shira Plateau and the surrounding mountains. The weather begins to change as you gain altitude. Temperatures become cooler as you ascend. The expansive views of the Shira Plateau make a lasting impression, and you start to feel like you're truly on an adventure. I enjoyed the view and the trekking.It was one of my favorite day.
We took a break at Shira 1 for lunch, resting for a rejuvenating three hours.
The journey then continued to Shira 2 camp at 3,850m, covering a distance of 5km in three hours. The nature along the way was stunning, guiding us across the vast Shira Plateau with panoramic views of Mount Meru and the surrounding mountains.The transition to higher altitudes became more apparent, and the unique flora, including giant plants, added to the allure of Kilimanjaro's distinct environment. With each step, temperatures continued to decrease. The night brought colder temperatures ranging from 5 to minus 10 degrees.
Friendship
Throughout this adventure, I shared the experience with my childhood friend, with whom I slept in the same tent for the entire seven days. Having a companion to share jokes, even in moments of pain, added to the enjoyment. My friend, being highly risk-averse, meticulously planned every detail. I discovered a resilient and humorous side of her during this physically demanding journey. Despite only training for two months, she consistently lagged behind by 2-4 hours. Everyday, she felt like giving up, but each day she persevered. The crucial thing was not to stop, and I couldn't be prouder of her determination.
Day 3: A BIRTHDAY SURPRISE
The morning greeted us with a breathtaking sunrise, but the cold lingered, ranging from 5 to 15 degrees. As a delightful surprise, the guides presented me with a birthday cake, fulfilling a dream of celebrating my life on top of a mountain. The gesture, bringing a cake all the way from Tanzania, left me deeply moved. I couldn't fathom how they managed to keep it in such good shape. The mountain birthday celebration was magical and filled with humanity. In the chilly morning, we sang and hugged, creating memories that resonated throughout the trip. The guides and porters consistently showed kindness and care, going beyond being mere service providers. Their efforts to ensure our comfort, despite their own fatigue, made me grateful for choosing them for this adventure. I felt safe in their hands.
Following the morning celebration, we resumed our trekking, divided into two parts.
The first involved reaching Lava Tower, covering 10 km with an altitude of 4,630m.The journey took five hours, with temperatures hovering around 10 degrees and occasional sunshine breaking through clear skies. The air felt cooler and drier, with intermittent mist or cloud cover. The terrain became steeper, rockier, and more challenging, transitioning into a high alpine desert environment. Vegetation was scarce, and the landscape progressively became more barren. As we ascended, I began to feel a headache on one side of my head. A break at Lava Tower camp for lunch provided a brief respite.
The trek then continued to Barranco Valley camp at 3,950m. The elevation presented a mix of rocks and limited vegetation.
Altitude sickness
By the end of Day 3, I started feeling the effects of altitude. It was unclear whether it was altitude sickness, a lapse in taking the Diamox pill for a day, or the food we consumed. My pace slowed, accompanied by headaches, nausea, and a sensation of something blocking my throat. I found relief by vomiting everything before reaching the next camp. Although I skipped dinner, I felt remarkably better the next day. Above 3,600m, the air feels like it has 40% less oxygen for every breath, leading to headaches due to increased blood flow to the head.
Day4: CLIMBING THE BARRANCO WALL
This proved to be one of the most challenging days of the journey.
Climbing the Barranco Wall took us 1.5 hours, followed by a 30-minute rest at the top and a subsequent 2-hour trek to the next camp, Karanga, at an altitude of around 3,995m. As we faced the rocky mountain wall, climbing with bare hands and feet, I questioned what had brought me to this place. The physical demands were intense due to the steep and rocky nature of the ascent. Navigating through large rocks and boulders required careful maneuvering, with some sections demanding the use of hands and feet for scrambling. A particularly challenging point, known as the kissing rock, required hugging the rock to cross to the other side of the mountain.
The Barranco Wall presented a formidable exercise, but the reward at the top was a cloudy summit and a profound sense of victory. Upon reaching the summit, we spontaneously danced with strangers to Nigerian music, expressing our joy and happiness. We celebrated with Skittles as a snack and relished the breathtaking view.
I mistakenly thought the challenges were behind us, only to realize we still had a 2-hour walk to the next camp a tan altitude of 3,995m. Fatigue began to set in, and our appetite waned. We decided to stop taking the soup for the following days, growing tired of anything with cream. It seemed our cook was incorporating flour or cream into all the dishes. Dreams of real showers and beds started to occupy our thoughts.
Emotional messages
Additionally, my power bank was running low, which was crucial for staying connected with friends and family. Messages received during the trek were essential for boosting our spirits. Internet access was intermittent, and nights were spent checking WhatsApp messages and sending pictures. These messages proved invaluable, providing warmth during moments of extreme cold, fatigue, and waning appetite. Encouraging words from friends and family became our source of strength, reminding us that we were living a unique experience. Gratitude filled our hearts for having such support in our lives. A ranger helped charge one of my power banks in exchange for $1.5. We also noticed that as temperatures dropped, the power banks depleted faster, adding another layer of challenge to our journey.
Day5: BARAFU CAMP AND THE FINAL PUSH
Moving from Karanga to Barafu camp, the landscape transformed into a rocky and barren terrain with sparse vegetation. Loose scree and volcanic rocks characterized the path, making trekking poles invaluable. Temperatures hovered around -5 degrees, and the pressure of the altitude slowed our pace. Barafu camp, the last stop before the summit, stood at an altitude of 4,640 meters. The 6-kilometer trek took 2.5hours, and upon arrival, the remainder of the day was spent resting in preparation for the midnight summit push.
The guides explained that the summit is always attempted at night to prevent fear from overwhelming climbers when confronted with the magnitude of the challenge. At this point, I felt like I must be really crazy for doing this. But there was no room for turning back. I had done more than what was left. The unknown was also exciting after all the things we saw and the challenges we faced. We asked the guide if the last day was easy but she never really answered us. I think if she had told us the exact truth, we might have gotten worried. But we were starting to freeze and just needed to sleep. It was minus 10 degrees.
I woke at 11pm to get ready. I wore7 layers of cloths (3 of cold gear), 5 layers of trousers (2 of cold gear), a scarf, 2 gloves and took 1 baraclava in my bag and I had my headlamp. It took six hours to reach the top, with temperatures plummeting between -10 to -30degrees as we ascended the rocky and slippery path.. We had to follow closely our guides. We left the team at barafu camp and climbed only with the main guide and 1 porter. My friend left also separately earlier as we had different paces.
This was a night of constant battle between my mind and my physical strength. The cold and the previous day exhaustion would make you want to sleep . You will be constantly fighting to not sleep and to not stop longer to avoid freezing. On our way up, I saw a man coming down with 2porters. He could barely control his legs and his eyes were upside down. The guides needed him to try to stay focus as coming down in the night is even more riskier as the descent is a slope with many rocks and slippery sands. Looking at his face , I had a doubt in my ability to reach the top. I started asking many questions to the guide to understand the risk implication and the option given to me in case I give up. I was fearing more going down in the middle of the night than going up. So I had to tell my mind, we were still doing the right thing.
As the journey progressed, the porter provided hot water to combat the freezing temperatures. Trekking poles proved essential to prevent slipping, and my fingers became numb. Emotional moments occurred, contemplating giving up, but thoughts of my children propelled me forward.
UHURA Peak & mental struggle
When i was getting close to the summit but my body could no longer follow, when i really thought that i will die because i could no longer feel my fingers and toes, when i just wanted to sleep, when breathing was so hard and each pace was feeling like 100 paces in one second. My mind would remind me about my kids. I couldn’t die. Not now. It wasn’t the time.
The love we have for our bloodline is incredible. It is our strength but also weakness
The truth as well is that throughout this trip i came to the realization that i have an amazing husband. He supported my dreams, cheering me and sharing with me every day that the house, the kids everything was under control. I never doubted his ability to do that but in those moment of loneliness you realize that somehow if anything happens to you, then your kids will be in good hand.
When we got to the stellar point, I was so relieved and proud but freezing so much.
My guide lured me stating that we have to go to the other side but she was trying to get me to the uhura point. When I realize that we were not going down and got to another point of the mountain which is the highest peak of the kili, I got upset with my guide. At that point, I had lost all my energy. I wanted to go home. There was nothing left. But if she didn’t push me, I don’t think I would have ever made it. Today I’m grateful for her. The mountain was full of snow and the view was unique. In that moment, you are proud but you are freezing so much that your mind doesn’t comprehend what you have achieved.
It took me 6 hours from the last camp to get to uhuru peak. We got there on sunrise.
To avoid freezing, we just took few pictures and had to turn back and start the descent. The trekking poles were so helpful. the ice was melting and there were many small stones which could make you slipper. it was even more challenging for me. As we descent, you could feel the lower altitude having a positive effect on your body. It took me 5 hours to descent the mountain.
After two hours of rest at Barafu camp, we moved to the next camp, encountering a continuous rocky stair-like descent for five hours. This is the worst route.
The descent, lasting five hours, was challenging with melting ice and slippery rocks. While it's a relief to be descending, the knees and legs can still feel the strain, especially on the steeper sections. My knees have never hated me so much. Trekking poles are valuable during the descent to provide stability and reduce strain on the joints. Rain made the rocks slippery, further adding to the challenge. The descent marked a significant drop in altitude, and exhaustion set in.
I believe after reaching the summit, the only thing you want is to get in the next flight as the main goal is achieved. At this point, you wish you could teleport yourself to the exit of the national park.
At Mweka camp, at an altitude of around 3,100 meters, we slept, drained yet anticipating the celebration of our achievement outside the national park. The climate and vegetation shifted, signaling the end of this extraordinary journey.
Day6 : THE DESCENT –REFLECTION & CAMARADERIE
The descent from Mweka Camp led us through the lush rainforest zone, where the air was humid, and vibrant greenery surrounded us. Towering trees and a rich array of plant life created a picturesque backdrop.
As we descended further, the temperatures increased, prompting us to shed some layers of clothing. The easier descent allowed time for reflection on the accomplishment and fostered camaraderie among fellow hikers. Conversations with others revealed a diverse group, ranging from individuals in their 60s to those in their 30s. Each person was driven by unique motivations – celebrating milestones, challenging themselves, contributing to charitable causes, or simply expressing their love for nature. Despite differing reasons, the common thread was the desire to challenge oneself.
I noticed a number of solo hikers(Without their spouse/husband), much like myself, with partners who were supportive but not necessarily interested in the climb. Acceptance of these differences allowed each person to embrace their true selves. As we descended, the sight of Mount Kilimanjaro from a distance evoked nostalgic emotions, signaling the end of an unforgettable experience.
Reaching the exit of the national park after 3 hours marked a moment of relief and celebration with the porters, guides, and friends. The sense of achievement overwhelmed the pains endured. I felt an immense pride in overcoming physical challenges to fulfill one of my dreams.
GRATITUDE
According to the national park file, I’m the first person from Niger who has done Kilimanjaro in the past 5years. They didn’t have informatics system before that so can’t confirm before that. I hope to inspire black women, given the rarity of their presence on the mountain, to pursue this achievable feat. That is doable. Taking the next day's flight to Accra, I noticed my face skin peeling, a consequence of the cold temperatures, and an outbreak of a cold sore. The effects of the high altitude became apparent. When you get above 1800m, your my body sweat twice as much moisture as at sea level, and the low air pressure evaporated what little moisture my skin retained, resulting in dryness.
Returning to Ghana with cracked skin, swollen lips and legs, and a sunburned complexion, I carried back a head full of beautiful landscape but a heart enriched with a deeper understanding of myself.
I want to believe that this is in preparation in what is upcoming in my life.
In dedication to my friend Anetou, whose humor and considerate character helped me reach the summit. To my friends and family for their supportive messages, my husband for unwavering belief, and, above all, to myself for gifting this unforgettable experience – a forever memory etched in my heart. Experiences like these are timeless treasures that no one can take away.
1. Pain is sometimes good. It pushes your mental ability and transforms you. Many people may not like exercising, but the question was never about going to the gym or doing a few jumping jacks. It is always about mental strength.
2. You are always competing against yourself, not with others. Throughout the trekking, the guides kept saying "Pole pole," which means "slow, slow." At those altitudes, it is important you manage your effort and take it one step at a time. Consistency prevails over speed. I have seen people speeding up, but then later stopped as they were unable to breathe properly or got tired quickly.
3. You always need someone in your life to push you. On the last day of the summit, climbing the last mountain in temperatures close to minus 30 degrees, I got to a point where I really wanted to give up and got angry with my guide. I told her it was further than what she originally told me. In that moment, I was just extremely tired, but I just needed 1 hour of a push to get to the peak. Her belief in me and pushing me till the end made this a successful journey
4. Physical preparation is as important as mental strength. I was always at least 2 hours ahead of my friend. I would get in the next camp, sleep 2 hours at least before she come. It gave me more time to rest. The day of the summit night , she started the climb at 10pm but return back at 1 pm. While I started at midnight 30 and returned 11am. It took me roughly 11 hours while it took her 15h. This doesn’t remove the fact each person should do the climb with his own pace. It is not a race. You should listen to your body. But the physical preparation helps you to reduce the fatigue and give time to rest. I even think i could have done even more for my physical preparation. There was a man who would take minimum 50 push ups at camp. I would look at him and ask myself where is he finding the strength. He could have been around 55 years old or more. So age is not a barrier, physical preparation and walking at your pace is crucial for success. Train your legs, your back, your breathing, fuel your body with the right food.
5. Health is wealth. I’m thanking myself for being consistent on my health over the past few years, and my body has rewarded me. It took me less than two days to recover from the fatigue when I returned home. The fitter you are, the faster the recovery and also the more chance you have to reduce the physical pain during the trekking.
6. Appreciate the support system: Having a supportive network, both physically and emotionally, is invaluable. Whether it's the encouragement of friends and family or the guidance of experienced guides, their presence significantly contributes to the success of the journey. Throughout the journey, the porters and guides were selfless.
7. You also always need someone to cheer you up. Every day when we would get to a camp, extremely tired, we would try to find a network. Receiving WhatsApp messages from friends and family supporting us gave me strength every day. Their messages were priceless. It made everything possible.
8. Embrace the unknown: Life is a series of unknowns, and embracing them can lead to incredible experiences. Kilimanjaro, with its changing landscapes and unforeseen challenges, mirrored the unpredictability of life. Adapting to the unknown with resilience and an open mind adds richness to the journey. Whenever you think that the challenge was over. Mother nature will bring you another one. Totally different but more challenging.
9. Cherish the journey, not just the destination: While reaching the summit was the ultimate goal, every step of the journey had its own significance. The breathtaking landscapes, encounters with diverse individuals, and personal growth experienced along the way all contribute to the overall beauty of the adventure.
10. Find strength in purpose: The journey became more than a physical challenge; it was a purpose-driven endeavor. Whether climbing for personal achievement, celebrating milestones, or supporting a cause, having a deeper purpose fuels the determination to overcome obstacles. The purpose was to inspire myself and give myself lessons without waiting for life to decide that I needed.
11. Nature is a powerful teacher: Kilimanjaro's diverse terrains and ever-changing weather conditions provided profound lessons. Observing the resilience of nature and its ability to adapt offered insights into the strength required for personal growth and transformation. In those difficult temperatures, where you only had rocks around you, you could sometimes find a beautiful yellow flower trying to make space to grow and adjust her growth to what nature allows her. She was different but that was her strength.
12. Be present in the moment: In the midst of challenges, being present and appreciating the current moment is crucial. Rather than focusing solely on reaching the end goal, relishing the experiences along the way enhances the overall journey.
13. Courage is not the absence of fear but the triumph over it: Facing fears and uncertainties is an inherent part of any significant undertaking. Kilimanjaro taught that courage is not the absence of fear but the ability to move forward despite it, bringing forth a sense of empowerment.
14. The mind is a powerful tool: Mental strength played a pivotal role in overcoming physical challenges. The ability to shift focus, stay positive in adversity, and cultivate resilience in the face of discomfort proved that the mind is a potent force.
15. Celebrate personal victories: Each step, each day, and each obstacle overcome is a personal victory. Recognizing and celebrating these achievements, no matter how small, contributes to a positive mindset and fuels the motivation to continue.
16. The journey never truly ends: Kilimanjaro is more than a mountain; it's a metaphor for life's continuous journey. Even after reaching the summit, the lessons learned and the growth experienced serve as a reminder that the journey is ongoing, and there is always room for further exploration and self-discovery.
